On our ten-day trip we ate out for breakfast most days, and were generally treated to pastries (sweet, and occasionally filled with meat or something savory), coffee, the occasional omelet, and the even more infrequent pancake or French toast. Mercifully, local markets offer fresh fruit, nuts, and other items that allow you to dine alfresco on the beach or one of the walking strands that are so delightful in Dubrovnik, Split, Zadar (further up the coast), and hundreds of other spots along the coast.
While the lack of a genuine “breakfast joint” is kind of a letdown, the ability to sit out and watch the world go by as you plan your day over coffee and a pastry is not to be dismissed. And, though it can be hot, the outdoor cafes usually offer shaded seating, which keeps you out of the “scorch” a few minutes longer, making this a decidedly pleasant way to start your day.
The pastries, while generous (and always enticingly photographed and splashed across the menu) try hard enough, but for whatever reason (maybe it’s the water) seemed to be almost uniformly dry and deliver something less than the gustatory bacchanal you expect after making the moral compromise to breakfast on pastries and not something more nutritious.
Fruit from the markets tends to be quite fresh, and conversations with the merchants are almost always pleasant. But know that the prices are pretty well set, as these markets tend not to be big on bargaining. That said, if you are truly prepared to walk away they may offer you a deal. But let them offer. Don’t insist on haggling.
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Coffee along Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast tends to be on the strong side, and is offered in the usual palette: drip, cappuccino, latte, and Americano (occasionally). Tea is available, but not always offered; so if you swing that way, don’t be bashful. Fresh squeezed orange juice is often available, but be warned that the high prices charged are no guarantee that it hasn’t come from a container.
Cop Cachet: Not much. Most cafes are pretty touristy; and quite often the staff aren’t even locals, but blow-ins from elsewhere in the EU.
Mug Meter: Not much, standard dark coffee, in a faceless cup/saucer, or, more often, in a takeaway
